Tuesday 30 August 2016

Bank Holiday stitching

Oh, I do love a long weekend. Even when you don't really go anywhere, or do anything in particular, it's just so nice having 3 days in a row with no alarm waking you up. Bliss. It'd be ever-so nice if every Monday was a bank holiday, wouldn't it? *yawns*

So. I think I did an excellent job of being lazy this weekend, all in all (this was deliberate as I'm going to likely need to work every other weekend from now until Christmas), but I did also manage to do a wee bit of sewing. 

Having realised that the Sew Over It Shift Dress requires only 1m of fabric (if it's 140cm wide...if it's narrower than that, you'll be shit out of luck. Which is really goddamn annoying if you happen to have some gorgeous double gauze with a directional pattern that you had been hoping to turn into a shift dress. Just sayin'), I thought I'd whip up another one or two using the various odd bits of crepe or polysomethings I had lying around. And so, I present to you my Upside Down Owl Dress (complete with terrified cat who refused to leave my side during Saturday's epic thunderstorms #hatesthunder):


I changed the armholes on this by using the lines intended for the sleeved version (the pattern has a slightly different shape for the sleeveless version) - this gives me a tiny bit more width to go under the arm, which I like. It's more comfortable when I sit down or lean forward. I still think the shoulders might be too wide or something though - the next one I make, I'll hack into the arm/shoulder hole at the front and lose 1-2cm. But I like this and again, I think it works belted or not. 

I checked carefully before cutting it out that the owls were non-directional - and I am sure there are just as many upside down as there are right way up. And yet...I'm convinced it looks upside down! Grr. Maybe they are special Bat Owls that hang from trees upside down?? Let's go with that. In any case, this feels like pretty cheap fabric, so it's unlikely to have a long life-span, so the bat-owls probably won't bother me for too long. 

Now, the bigger bit of sewing I did was a merino cardigan. This is version 2 of my test versions of the Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan. I made one in a thicker grey fabric the other week (sorry, no photos/post about that) and liked it enough to try it out in thinner merino jersey that my aunt in NZ sent to me last winter. This was a sort of dark fuscia/cerise type colour (which tbh, isn't really 'me', but I thought it would be a good wearable toile. It also - totally coincidentally - goes really well with the colours of the owl fabric). When I made this a couple of weekends ago in the thicker grey stuff, I liked the fit across the front and shoulders, but needed to take a good inch off either side seam, and close to that in the arms as well. This seems to me like I should go down a size, but then I'm worried about the whole boob/front fit thing. It's not such a big deal to hack up the sides, and besides, since every jersey does stretch differently, it's probably sensible to leave plenty of room for adjustment. 2 inches overall in the side seams seems a lot though. 

But. What these sorts of adjustments-on-the-hoof always mean, is that there is plenty of room for error. Like (hypothetically) cutting off too much in certain areas and making the damn thing too tight in the arms. For example... 


Extreme close-up...sorry about that. But - see what I mean about the arm snugness? Pretty gathering detail tho!

It's not unbearable, but this is pretty tight under the arms and on my pudgy upper arms. Possibly also in the waist, although probably with buttons that'd be ok. I haven't bothered with buttons or buttonholes, partly because I'm not really a button-up cardy person anyway (so they'd mostly be decorative and it's quite a lot of work for decoration and I'm lazy), but also because since this is a bit small, I'm not sure how much wear it'll get (and so again, lazy). So. Next version I might take a couple of incremental passes at the side-seam adjustments...to avoid the irreversible error of taking off too much. Ah well. You live and learn. 




Anyway. I made variation B (which has gathers and a yoke), waist length with 3/4 sleeves. There are a bunch of variations with this pattern (and I bought the 'expansion pack' version which means even more options) which is great  - we like options! I want to be able to wear these cardigans with dresses, so the cropped waist length made sense, and while I plan to wear the cardigan in winter, I always end up pushing my sleeves up, so I just figured 3/4 sleeve-length was sensible. Hurrah, the advantages to making your own clothes and getting to decide these things in the design phase!  

The pattern itself is great value for money because of all the variations (if you're buying it, just buy the bundle version. There's about 20 combos with that!). You can also just print off the pages that you need for your version, because the lovely Kat of Muse Patterns has designed the pdf layout sensibly to allow for such things. Bless her. The instructions aren't massively detailed so if you were sewing with knit/jersey for the first time, it might be a bit of a leap, but if you've made a few things on the over-locker or with this type of fabric, you'd be totally fine. Bar my fit issues, it all comes together really quickly. 

There will be more of these cardigans in my future I think. Just hopefully with a bit more room for my wings next time! 

How were your weekends? Make anything nice? Did you give yourself plenty of arm-room??



Monday 22 August 2016

I'm back! With palm trees...

I know I probably say this ALL the time (because I am a terrible blogger), but wow - hi! it's been ages! Sorry for being such an absent blogger, but life/work/summer got in the way. 

Shortly after my last post, we had to take a trip to Glasgow to visit family, then when we got home I had 2 weeks of total work madness, then about 2 days after the work madness, my mother in law arrived to stay for a fortnight. It's all been good, but has not left me much time for any sewing! (Didn't stop me from planning lots of projects and buying both patterns and fabric though. Oops). But this weekend finally I had an entire weekend with nothing planned and even better, the weather was a bit shit, so I felt no guilt whatsoever about staying indoors sewing. YAY. 

So - to the sewing machines! 

I planned to make a Sew Over It Ultimate Shift dress. Now, I do already have the Colette Laurel, and I also have several Big 4 patterns that are suspiciously shift-dress-like, but what I like about the SewOverIt one is that it doesn't have a back zip. It's super floaty and relaxed (and thus - quick). I have no real issue with zips in terms of sewing them (although I'm lazy, so that's an issue I guess) but I find them a faff with delicate fabrics and also, actually, it's just sometimes nice to have a dress that slips on and requires no effort (zipping yourself up is SO MUCH WORK you guys). I suppose I could have converted an existing pattern to be zip-less, but we've already discussed that I'm lazy, so let's assume we know why I didn't do that. 

Having done a bit of web sleuthing of versions of this pattern, I was pretty sure I was going to need to lower the dart by about an inch. This is increasingly becoming a standard pattern adjustment for me and my apparently low-hanging boobs, but once I had the pattern traced off, the dart looked pretty low already. I did a rough tissue fit and decided I'd risk it and call this a wearable toile - and you know what? I'm so glad I did! If I'd lowered the dart by an inch, it would have been miles too low. Depending on which bra I'm wearing, this dart is either spot on, or maybe 1cm too high, but I am SO not precise enough to give a shit about 1cm. Pretty sure we can go ahead and call that a spot-on fit out of the packet. Yay! 

Sorry about these overexposed pics. It was overcast but apparently still too bright for decent photos


I cut a straight 12 based on my boob measurement, and since I was using a lovely quality, drapey crepe (which, btw, I totally love and is perfect to sew and wear. More of these fabrics please!!), I figured the waist and hips could be a bit bigger without grading (yes, ok, laziness again. So sue me). I'm happy with it. It's pretty loose without a belt, but I planned to wear it belted anyway so that works (and, in saying that, having looked at these terrible photos, I'm quite liking the unbelted look too. A wee bit tentish, but not too horrifying).


I did have a bit of a drama when I made this which provoked all manner of swearing and stamping around. If you follow me on Instagram, you'll have seen my horror at this most common of overlocking incidents! ARGH. Caught the fabric when overlocking the side seams and hacked a bloody great hole in the fabric!! Thank god for a busy print which hides my sneaky patching ever-so well. If I can just avoid telling people it's there, no one will notice I think. Still peeves me, but I won't be making that mistake again I guess. Yay learning. 

Disaster.
Crisis averted with a sneaky patch. Can you see it? Look closely, but shhh don't tell anyone!


The pattern calls for a hook and eye, but my MiL brought me a tonne of buttons this visit so I sifted through and found a cute wee flower that I thought worked with the tropical fabric vibes. 



Oh, and I bound the arm holes with bias binding rather than just overlocking and turning them...that seemed a weird finish for a woven fabric. Would you guys do that with an arm hole? Am I overly suspicious? The arm hole fit is ok but I think if I had made it in a more rigid fabric (a cotton lawn perhaps), I'd need to widen it a bit. It's just bordering on too tight. Fine for this version, but I may alter future efforts.  



So that's it! Actually, I also sewed up a test version of a cardigan yesterday, but I'll blog about that another day (hopefully with a 'real' version of the same garment). For now, I leave you with my shitty photography and the hope that the sun starts shining again so I can wear my black and white tropical shift dress and frighten the world with my pasty white legs. 

Have a good week everyone! 
xoxo

p.s - I've only recently noticed that if you're reading my posts via Bloglovin', they probably look less formatted and even more shit than they do in the originals. Sorry about that. If you want to see a slightly less crappy version, come on over to the actual blog! Thanks my dearies xx